The Oranda Goldfish Resource

Oranda Goldfish

Oranda Goldfish“Oranda Goldfish” is the common name for the Carassius Auratus species.

Adult size: 6-8 inches
Minimum tank size: 10 gallon
pH: 6.0-8.0
Temperature: 65-72°F (18-22°C)
Decor: Rocks, Driftwood, and Plants
Substrate: Any
Lighting: 8-10 hrs/day
Diet: Omnivore

How To Keep Oranda Goldfish
How To Breed Oranda Goldfish
Other Information About Oranda Goldfish

 

How to Keep Oranda Goldfish


Adoption

If you adopt Oranda Goldfish from a contaminated source, your aquarium may become infected. As a result, you need to ensure you only adopt ones that are kept in a healthy environment.

They can be adopted from:

Before adopting them, understand:

  • Oranda Goldfish have an average life expectancy of 10-15 years.
  • Oranda Goldfish may be identified under the common names of: Azuma Nishiki Oranda, Red-Cap Oranda, Telescope Eyed Oranda, White PomPom Oranda, Nagate Oranda, and Panda Oranda.

Tank Requirements

• Tank Size & Population Density

If your Oranda Goldfish are in an aquarium that is overstocked, they will become stressed – weakening their immune systems – causing them to be more prone to diseases, and they won’t grow to their appropriate size. As a result, you need to follow the rule of one inch of fish per gallon of water, but keep in mind:

  • Oranda Goldfish must be kept in at least a 10 gallon aquarium.
  • Oranda Goldfish eventually grow to be 6-8 inches long.

How do I setup a fish tank? (Opens new tab)
How do I determine the size of my aquarium? (Opens new tab)

• Canopy & Lighting

The canopy of your aquarium ensures:

  • Your fish don’t jump out of your aquarium.
  • No contaminates enter your aquarium.

As a result, equip your aquarium with a canopy that completely covers it.

As far as lighting goes, if you want your Oranda Goldfish to be most comfortable, the amount of light they get needs to mimic the amount of sunlight they receive in their natural habitat. The amount of time you should leave their aquarium’s lights on to achieve this varies. If it’s in a room that doesn’t get a lot of sunlight, you should turn their lights on during sunlight hours. However, if it’s is in a well-lit room, then 2-3 hours per day is all that is necessary.


Decor & Substrate

When keeping Oranda Goldfish, they will thrive if you decorate their aquarium with decor and substrate that mimics their natural habitat.

The natural decor for them consists mainly of plants, smooth rocks, and driftwood, so you should add plenty of them to their aquarium. When arranging these things though, you need to ensure you:

  • Place the decors so that it provides them with plenty of open swimming areas.
  • Place the decor in a fashion that allows you to see them – don’t create a barrier for them to hide behind.

As far as substrate goes, gravel or sand are both suitable options for them. In either case, you need to ensure you:

  • Clean their substrate beforehand. Otherwise, the residue that is on it will make their aquarium cloudy.
  • Fill their aquarium with at least 2 inches of substrate.

Water Parameters

If the water in your Oranda Goldfish aquarium doesn’t reflect that of their natural habitat, they can become stressed – weakening their immune systems – causing them to be more prone to diseases. As a result, you need to ensure their aquarium has a pH level of 6.0-8.0 and a temperature of 65-72°F (18-22°C).

• pH
pH can be measured by using a Freshwater Master Test Kit. If you measure your water’s pH level and it needs to be altered: remove your fish, adjust the pH, then acclimate your fish back into your aquarium – since they are sensitive to drastic changes of pH.

• Temperature
To measure your aquarium’s water temperature, equip your aquarium with an aquarium thermometer.


Ammonia, Nitrites, & Nitrates

The subject of Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates tends to be very dry. In its simplest form, they are all a byproduct of fish waste (fish poop & uneaten food) and are toxic to Oranda Goldfish. As a result, you need to ensure their aquarium has:

  • An Ammonia concentration of 0-0.2 mg/L.
  • A Nitrite concentration of 0-0.2 mg/L.
  • A Nitrate concentration of 0-20 mg/L.

If you need to test these concentrations, use a Freshwater Master Test Kit.

If you need to reduce these concentrations, ensure proper:


Feeding

Oranda Goldfish are omnivores, so their diet regimen should consist of meats and vegetables.

They should be fed twice per day – for a total of 14 feedings per week. For a majority of the feedings, they should be fed a staple food consisting of either flakes or pellets. For the other feedings, they should be fed special foods.

During each feeding, they should be fed as much food as they can eat in 2 minutes. The exact foods they should be fed varies, depending on their size:

Of course, this is just our feeding method. You are more than welcome to design your own diet regimen for your Oranda Goldfish. In either case though, ensure you:


Health Issues

Oranda Goldfish are most-commonly become infected by Ich, Dropsy, Swim Bladder Disease, Fin Rot and Cloudy Eye.


Tank Mates

Oranda Goldfish can be kept solo or with other fish. Due to the fleshy growth on their head, they require more time to feed, so they shouldn’t be kept with fast-moving fish. Slow and peaceful community fish, such as other goldfish, make for the best tank mates. To learn more about their compatibility with other species, use this Compatibility Chart.


 

How to Breed Oranda Goldfish


Reproduction Process

Oranda Goldfish will only reproduce once a year – in the spring. Prior to the spawn, the male will develop spots around its gills and the female will bloat from the eggs that she is developing. Then, the male will begin chasing the female around the aquarium. During this process, both of the fish will intensify their colors.

When the spawning begins, the male pushes the female into a plant, causing her to drop her eggs. The eggs then adhere to the side of the tank or plant. The male then fertilizes them. The spawning process can last up to 3 hours and it can result in anywhere from 5,000 to 10,000 eggs. Unfortunately, the goldfish will oftentimes eat the eggs right after the spawn.


Our Recommended Breeding Technique

Required Aquariums:

  • 20 gallon (breeder)
  • 10 gallon (grow-out)

Instructions:

  • Place a male and female Oranda Goldfish into a 20 gallon aquarium and provide them with the appropriate aquarium setting. Make sure the aquarium has something that the eggs will be able to stick too – Spawning Mops and plants work the best.
  • Around springtime, do regular water changes. This will simulate rainfall and help induce spawning. Once the spawn occurs, you will be able to see the eggs attached to the plant or spawn mop. If the water is cloudy, it is a good indication that the eggs have been fertilized.
  • After the reproduction process occurs, transfer the eggs into the 10 gallon growout aquarium. The water level of the 10 gallon aquarium should only be 5-6 inches, so that the weight of the water does not crush the eggs. It should also have no decorations or substrate, this makes it easier for them to eat. It should also have a sponge filter so that the fry don’t get sucked up.
  • In the early stages, it is best to feed the fry New Life Spectrum Small Fry Starter.

 

Other Information About Oranda Goldfish


Origin

Fancy goldfish are not naturally found in the wild. Instead, they were actually developed by asian breeders in the 1500’s. The Oranda is just one of hundreds of Fancy Goldfish that are kept in captivity today. Researchers have concluded Russian Carp is most likely the original ancestor of the Goldfish.


Conservation Status

The Conservation Status of Oranda Goldfish was most recently published in 2013 as Least Concern, according to the IUCN.


Taxonomic Status

The Taxonomic Status of Oranda Goldfish was most recently published in 1758 by Carl Linnaeus as:

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Actinopterygii
Order: Cypriniformes
Family: Cyprinidae
Genus: Carassius
Species: C. auratus


 


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